Comtes LafonVolnay 1er Cru 'Santenots du Milieu'2013
Comtes Lafon is best known for its white Meursaults, but Dominique Lafon's reds deserve equal attention. Santenots du Milieu is technically in Meursault but classified as Volnay premier cru, and Lafon's biodynamic farming (adopted in 1998) brings real depth to this parcel. The 2013 cool vintage shows kirsch and dark cherry with violet and a menthol lift, fine-grained tannins and a saline mineral finish. Drinking well now, but has the structure for another decade.
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Comtes Lafon is the benchmark Meursault estate, family-owned since Jules Lafon married into the Boch family's vineyards in 1894. Jules founded the Meursault Paulée in 1923 and acquired plots in Montrachet Grand Cru in 1919. Dominique Lafon took over in 1985, reclaimed all sharecropped parcels by 1993, and converted to biodynamic farming by 1998. The reds from Volnay are often overlooked but equally exceptional.
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